Hi fellas I have been lurking on here for a little while soaking up as much as I can and wanted to say hi and this forum is awesome.

With that said And this being my first post I need some help. Any and all help or input is greatly appreciated. I recently bought a 06' go devil with 22 hrs on it (it has a tachometer and hr meter on it). Now down on the lower seal housing where the first lock nut there should be about 1/8 inch gap bteween it and the seal housing. The lock nut tightens up against the prop as to not allow it to tighten up against the seal housing well it isint. When the motor gets the rpms up the lock nut and prop work there way against the seal housing and I have no idea how to get this to stop. If you have any adivice I would really love to here it and I look forward to learning more from the pros. Thanx

Loosen the yoke and remove set screw near the engine, loosen the set screw in the concentric collar, loosen concentric collar, slide the shaft out some, bottom the first nut out on the end of the threads, slide the shaft back up until you get the desired clearance, tighten the yoke, carefully drill a divot in the shaft for the set screw, replace set screw with blue loctite, tighten concentric collar and it's set screw.

x2 on what kibb said.

Either the drive shaft slid up into the u-joint, or the u-joint slid further on the crankshaft. Both shafts should be flush with the inside lip of each yoke.

Thanx guys. I figured out that I needed to tighten up the seal housing because the guy that replaced the seals didnt tighten it up enough and that why it was rubbing against. Now the threads end are bout 1/8 inch from housing just as charles from GD said they should be. If I have any other questions I will be sure to ask, yall have a world of good info here I look forward to learning a shit load

You did good talking to Charles....

He is the senior mechanic there at GD - and the only person
to ever lay a wrench on my GDSD....

This thread is about the fifth thread in a row - where a prior
owner or a new owner attempted repairs without talking to
the factory guys - they are busy but will usually stop and
help you work thru a repair....

He said the lock nut and prop WORKED THEIR WAY UP, numbnuts. He asked how to stop this from happening and that's where I gave instruction how to correct that particular problem.

It's really not complicated. Go-Devils are know for simplicity.

Hey GIGA 1st off with the up most respect I didnt "try" any repairs on my motor before I talked with Charles, I know what I have here considering what i gave for it. (u would probably chit ur self if u knew) i really do appreciate everything fellas

At 22 hours, the prior owner had no reason to fool with it. It's just another mistake with factory QC.

Kibb, you are never gonna get a free prop.

Ummmmmm!!

Page 5. Seal info.

http://godevil.com/documents/Go-Devil%2 ... Manual.pdf

Kibb you do know who you are dealing with

For somebody who claims to only use gas and grease sure is contradicting one self!!

Ah geez y'all done ran off another one

22 hours on said 5 year old machine. If I read better than I mechanic, how can I give him detailed instructions on what to do? Wouldn't I have gave him the link to the owner's manual earlier if I didn't know what I was talking about? Why would I personally change my seals and shaft, as later stated, if I didn't know what I was doing? I turn wrenches just about everyday and don't have to bring my motor in for said "Routine Maintenance." Bring it!!!! Let's start a new thread "GD vs GD" or "GDLT vs GDSD."
All your "Drivel" is worn out about the other manufacturers. I knew it was not a QC issue. Just giving you your daily dose of Coco cum!

Here's your link...


http://rectcraninversion.tripod.com/

Explain something to me. How come my replacement shaft had 1/4" more threads than the last shaft? Shouldn't it be identical? I installed it and it doesn't sit flush in the yoke. Is that Kosher? I have been running it for about 20 hours now and I am not worried about it. It serves its purpose and isn't a big deal. That, however, is a quailty control flaw. Eventough, it presents not problems. All manufacturers have flaws here and there. Heaven forbid it be a GTR or PD.

Thanx to both of you for the input and yes GD is good on customer service. I have a few buddys that own them before I found this diamond so thats why I jumped on it. It really was just a 15 min repair b/c the dip chit before didnt know his azz from a hole in the ground but now I know. Also when I talked with charles he stated that it is best to replace the srals on it atleast once a year if it is used alot. His words "its better to replace some cheap seals than and expensive shaft or other major component. Oh and nobobody is running me off especialy when I get this much good input on my first post. THANX GUYS

While it doesn't hurt to change the seals yearly, it's not necessary if it doesn't use grease. You change tire on your truck yearly? It doesn't hurt to change them yearly, but it's not me necessary, either. Trust me you will know if you need new seals. Just keep a set in the garage for when they go out. Sounds like he's a good salesman, too.

I get what you are saying and it says clearly that you only need to change seals if it takes more than 10 pumps from a grease gun to fill the resevoir. I only listen to advice and then make my own assecesment. Lol. I personaly will only change the seals when neccessary.

We have a longtail at work with seals that 5 years old. While they are cheap, $20 x 5 = $100 in my pocket. Plus gas and time changing. The thing about a longtail is if a seal goes out you will still get home. You will only ruin other parts if continually used and/or neglected.