Calen will give him a warranty so will who ever else he chooses

how long would it be i think mb is 6mnths

Thats another question I had on the motors. I know mud buddy warrantied there mod motor, but wasnt sure about gatortail.

Mb runs a tad bit larger shaft as gt they are both octagon so the Lil bit it's loose makes no difference

To add to what DDM said, one's standard, one's metric.

Who's the builder?

CB, you may be on to something. I did put her @ rest n the safest place just as needed. Other 2 options were No Bueno. Either center a cypress tree or drive through deadbirds boat w/ his family n it. Latter 2 were quickly dismissed as option.

if u put the 2x2 braces under the floor the it is on the hull maybe a hook area ?

If you put them under the floor, you'll need to add several more so that the floor doesn't sag. By doing that, it'll add more weight to the hull. Personally, I like the exposed cross bracing, because it gives a lip to keep everything out from under my feet.

their longitudinal bracing is rectangular tubing that runs past the length of the flooring from the transom and is only spaced around 8" apart (which makes it really rigid)...with that, an 1/8" plate setting on that bracing will not sag even if there is no horizontal bracing under or above....i'm not sure if that flooring plate is 1/8" thick though...it might be lighter... not sure... just my experience with installing and building is that if it is 1" or less in spacing with an 1/8" plate of 5052 aluminum or stiffer, sagging will be minimul... but either way...above or below, they are nice.. i would just rather it below

The cross bracing is there to strengthen the sides. If you removed it so that the floor would be continuous & without the exposed 2x2, the sides would then lose some of their integrity & "wobble" while running. I seriously doubt Kent, or any other builder worth their salt will be willing to sacrifice the structural integrity of their boat just so you won't have to pick up your feet while you walk in it.

ohh ok... now i see what he was talking about... he misunderstood what i meant by placing it under the flooring... i meant that it would be fitted into the longitudinal framing so it would sit flush with those existing braces... so the floor plate would be touching the cross member and the longitudinal frame together and would be flat... my bad TC...i didn't explain myself good enough i guess... thanks mw46

Ahhhhh, I see. No harm, no foul. I would think the bottom would have kind of a waffle look after a while like that though. Someone just built one like that, maybe he'll chime in.

Gatortail does it that way. They don't have cross braces above the floor. The cross braces are fit between the longitudinal runners but they don't touch the bottom of the boat, just the sides and the other braces.

When I got my PD I wasn't thrilled about the 2x2 bracing above the floor thinking of tripping and wondered why they didnt put them under the floor but now I like them exposed. When I take the boxes out and the floor is wide open, they help keep all my gear from going all over the boat. Not once have I or anybody I've had in the boat has tripped over them (so far).

To tell you the truth, one of my main reasons for buying a gatortail boat was no bracing on the floors. But the more I have rode in boats that have the bracing on the floor, the more I notice that it doesn't really get in the way.

I have not had any problems w/ mine either. Figure when someone hunts w/ me that complains I will explain briefly that they dont have to get back in my boat w/ those terribly irritating cross braces.

In the early days of GatorTrax the boats were built not with an open floorplan but with a cross box that covered those exposed braces. When Kent started building boats without the cross boxes he just left them exposed.

I would never want to have a boat without these braces.

before buying my 1st (& current) mud rig, i compared gator trax and go devil hulls pretty extensively - through their web sites & on the phone w/ each. for me, a similar sized & optioned gator trax was significantly more expensive - and a friend thought the gtrax would weigh more. i knew i wouldn't get my 1st rig/setup just right & their cost was basically way too high for me to justify the difference - and note this is a tiller rig, not steering. gtrax argued they aint the same boats - airboat style rake, marine wiring, full welds - etc - though no one i know has real problems with go devil hulls. i went w/ the go devil hull & it's been excellent. built like a tank; the "cheap wiring" has not had any problems; steers sharp; does well crossing the mississippi in venice, the popup is sweet, etc.
ps - i think in buying from go devil, gator trax got me banned from mud buddy's forum - if so, what a sorry bunch of mf'ing pussies.

butf’k barnes,
never said i was important – just said i got banned - and it was right after my gd purchase & end of conversations w/ gtrax. don’t be hating b/c you got a heavy ass, overpriced gator trax.

Gatortrax builds a fine boat overall, I wish they did not go away from the tapered chine models they built years ago for PD, those were some of the best running hulls they ever built. The round chine is nice for sliding off of stuff, but you give up some draft and performance IMHO. The PD, Gatortail, GD surface drive, Phowlers and other small builders boats with square of double tapered chines seem to get more out of the surface drives from what we have seen. From there is it really a matter of picking a boat that best meets your needs from the various builders out there, they are all good boats. The East TX boyz seem to like 3/16 bottom for the conditions they run, them boyz can tear up and anvil with a tooth pick over there.

PW