Has anyone drilled a hole through the drive shaft and yoke then installed a grade eight bolt to hold the drive shaft in place in the yoke? My 1/4" key way in the drive shaft has become some what wallered out because of a "technical spot" on my last trip and it doesnt feel very safe for long trips.

I know I have a chance of shearing the bolt, but I would bring spares of course.

Has anyone done this and/or does this sound ok to do? If so how big of a bolt should I use? The drive shaft is only 3/4" thick.

*edit* good call indawoods

Negative ghostrider. You will shear your shaft. Replace the key and don't worry about it. It's designed as the weak spot for a reason. The key should remain against one side of the keyway while under load, so no worries, just inspect before each trip.

You can get keys already cut at Home Depot in the drawers down the bolt aisle.

Drill and thread a hole for a set screw on top of the key way through your u joint, I did and it works get with a little lock tite

could you drill a hole and still run the key? if you shear the key, you can put a bolt in to get you home

filing down an oversized key to fit is a good idea, as posted above, if you can.
will tighten up the slack considerably.

It looks like I'll be modifying an oversized key at this point.

Now more bad news.. My lower drive shaft seal is leaking grease..How big of a job is it to replace??

depends on the brand, but generally speaking, a cheap fix that's pretty easy, getting the old seal out is sometimes a pain. I've always just pulled my shaft to make the seal easier to get at and so I don't accidentally score the shaft (and tear up the new seal). re-stabbing the shaft through the top bearing housing is the other fun part. I use a small flat screw driver in the shaft keyway to guide it, with the shaft on top of the screwdriver, keyway pointed down. One of these days, I'm gonna fab a tool....

I called mudbuddy today and got seals for the top and bottom as well as a new top bearing. I didn't order a new drive shaft because I'm goin to have a new keyway cut in it.

The parts will be here next week.

I have a MB 23. Post questions if you get stuck.

It's pretty straight forward. I use a large socket to seat the bottom seal evenly, instead of tapping on the seal itself around the sides. No chance of bending the seal that way. (1 and 1/8 I think)

You can get those parts in Kenner, FYI. (Motion Industries, etc...)

Damn I didnt even think about Motion. We have an account with them at work... Oh well. The parts are here but I can't get my drive shaft out.

Is there anything holding it in there besides the set screws on the top bearing?

Got it out! It's slightly bent, so I called MudBuddy to order a new one, however when I had ordered the bearings and seals a week or two ago I had already asked how much they were and was quoted 120 bucks. I thought that was an "ok" price, but I didnt order it since I didnt know if I was going to need one or not. Well I need it. Called back this past Friday to order one and was quote 185 this time. No way. Sorry, not worth it. Got a guy in Harahan to make me one for well over HALF the price. Also it is made of Series 300 stainless, not the Series 400 that I had.

I should be back up and running next week!


EDIT: Does anyone have a part number for the lower roller bearing?

When I pulled the shaft I noticed that the inner race for the roller bearing moved in and out? Is that ok? I don't know what it's supposed to look like new and not sure it its bad or not. I'd hate to put it back together if its bad.

Clean out all the grease from the roller bearing to find a part number..

Pitchlign H RBC SJ-7194 Made in USA 115

Now, I found this bearing but it can either be sealed or non-sealed. I'm guess the one used in my application is as non-sealed? I'm saying this because if it were sealed then the grease from the drive shaft tube wouldn't be able to reach the bearing and since there is no grease zerk it wouldn't be able to be greased.

Anybody?

I thought a sealed bearing was lubed at the factory and never needed grease.
I could be wrong.

I;ve always used standard, non sealed bearings, that's what my grease zerk on the shaft housing is for. Be careful stabbing the new shaft through the seals, the new threads can cut your new seals up.