Hello to all on the LT forum. I've been a lurker here for awhile and have finally decided to take the DIY plunge. Everyone here has a wealth is information that I would like to tap from time to time. I'm sure I will also provide some comic relief with my errors. As I progress your thoughts, opinions, and direction would be appreciated. I have thick skin, and take constructive criticism well. Just don't talk smack about my dog.
So here I go: I've got my plans from Ebay and decided on the Duromax 16hp motor. I'm currently running a Mirrocraft 451 Predator. The boat is 14' x51" with the 20" transom. I will not need a LT for everyday use, but there a half a dozen times during the season that a LT could put me on the X. The runs are not long, maybe 1.5 miles each way, so speed isn't a concern. Just need to make through 6"-8" of skinny water covering flooded grain fields. And a side note: I'm too old to be pushing. With this being said, my questions.

What size DOM tube do us guys recommend (diameter and wall thickness)? The stuff in the plans seems to small for the extra HP. Also I was planning to make the shaft length 7' instead of 6' to accommodate the taller transom.

What are your thoughts on a tapered thrust bearing at motor side to transfer the thrust energy to the upper frame instead of the U-joint.

and finally. I'm not too hip on the RPM's that LT props need. Would removing the governor on the motor be beneficial. I know the 3600 RPM's is the max on a stock motor. I also am aware that some kind performance upgrades will need to be done if the governor is removed.

Again Hello and Thanks

I am also in the process of putting one together with their plans, im using a 13hp honda for mine because thats what i had already. would prefer a bigger motor but gotta go with what i got for the first one then if it works ill upgrade and maybe build another one later on. I went with the same size D.O.M. tube that they recommend because it feels pretty durn strong as it is. I beleive its the 1.375 o.d. with a wall thickness of .188". I got mine frome onlinemetals.com. They told me that they cant guarantee inside diameter but with that outside diameter and that wall thickness which they do guarantee down to .004" you will have an inside diameter of 1" which will work with the bearings they reccomend. You can get the bearings from mcmaster but i had my fastenal guy hook me up with some. As far as the thrust bearing i dont know because i dont have alot of experience with these so thats why im going with the u-joint. As far as the rpm's go if you dont like the high rpm's then removing the governor will do nothing for you as the governor keeps it the rpm,s from going any higher. But if you do remove the governor then the least you will have to do is upgrade the valve springs because if you dont you will float the valves at the higher rpm's. I hope this all helps because like you i too am diving into building my first one so we can learn from our mistakes together.

Unless it's a sloppy mud bottom, you probably won't be able to run a considerable distance in 6-8" of water.

I'm looking at the stage 1 upgrade kit with the header, valve springs and carb jets. As far the the mud its the slimy river bottom muck that pulls your boots off. If it was a hard bottom I would just push. lol

With that 20" transom that will negatively affect the LT; I would cut down the transom to 15-16" to improve the performance.

I've read that before; however, I'm running a 10HP long shaft outboard for 90% of my hunting. Plus the decking in the rear will interfere. That's why I asked about running a 7' shaft on the LT to offset the tall transom. I've also read about the plowing effect on the bow. My boat has a modified -V. Will that somewhat negate the plowing. Thanks.