The RIGHT way. lol. I have searched here and on youtube and cant seem to find a informative video on how to change that shit out. I know how to do it, but apparently not the right way cuz I think lower seal should last longer than 30 hours of run time before havng to be changed. So a video would be great.

Thanks
The Gee

I'm assuming you have a GD. In that case, go to their website and download the owners manual. The instructions are pretty good. Whatever you still have questions about, call GD and they'll help ya out.

Well,, I'm just trying to take the prop off right now and it is being a massive bitch! I've had it off before and put anti sieze on it but it doesn't want to come off to save my life! I think I'm going to break the yoke if I try twisting it any harder. I've tried heating it up and turning it and it won't budge. Any other suggestions? Damnit!!


The gee

Put a wrench on the top nut right above the prop and let the cavitation plate hold backup. Get a 3' x 2" flat bar. Drill a 3/4" hole about 6" from the end. Slide that over the shaft and the flatbar will push on the prop blades. If you still can't break it put a cheater pipe over the flatbar.

10-4 on what kibb said. I remove the prop a couple of times a season to prevent bad binding. It's a biatch no other way to describe it. Good luck!

Use nickel based anti-seize, it prevents washout. LPS makes some.

So.. I let it sit overnight after putting some penetrating oil on it and had a buddy of mine hold the shaft to try to stabilize it while I tried wrenching on it with a large pipe wrench on the prop, and after slowly lifting him off the ground 3 or 4 times with no success, we heated the prop up with a torch and tried it again, again with no success. I guess I'll be trying the wrench and hole in the flat bar. Just curious, but won't this method eff up the threads of the shaft? Thanks for all your help guys?

where are you located? GD has a special tool that makes it much easier to remove the prop. Still tough but it is easier.

Had to change my seals not long ago. Not hard at all

If you can weld you can weld a couple pieces of thick flatbar to an old deep socket to grab the blades close to center, also. An impact should get it off if the other method fails.

First off, wedge a large flathead screwdriver in the u-joint by the motor so that the shaft and prop will not turn. Then get a prybar and wedge between the blades and push down. That works i just did my seals. I also built my own shaft puller out of a piece of 1/2" conduit. Assuming the keyway is out and the shaft is free on the upper u-joint, slide it on the shaft and put on your shaft nut. Tighten the shaft nut clockwise, as you tighten on the shaft nut beat on the u-joint towards the motor after every rotation of the nut. After a few minutes of repeating this process it should break loose. Hope this helps.

Well fuck this thing. I've pryed on it as much as I dare without breaking part of the frame. I'm just going to take it to the local GD guy and have them do it and maybe change the shaft too if it needs it. Fml. I've effed up the threads pretty good wrenching on this bitch. Ffffffml.

The gee

Call Go Devil.
They keep all the tools on hand and if you put a deposit (warning, it is several hundred dollars) down they will send all the tools (prop wrech, slide hammer, etc etc) to you. When you send them back you get your deposit back minus about 30 bucks.

Once you remove your prop you can use it to help fix your threads if you dont have a die/tap set

Wont be perfect but it'll function pending how bad you cut them... =(