Alright guys need to change my oil. No where in the owners manual can I find where it says how much. Also what type of oil are you guys running? I want to switch it over to synthetic. Also what about the filter? Any special oil filter i should be running? Engine ran a little rough today when I took it out but I think thats because I left the gas can vent shut Hope its nothing more than that with teal season a week away.

If you want to extend the life of the engine, Synthetic is better, and if you want to save a few bucks on the filter , Toyota Tacoma 2007 filter will do it.

I have the 27 Kohler but my two previous were 25's. There are a bunch of Kohler filter equivalents. I would use the larger canister ones, currently have a Fram. I use Mobil 1 for the motor and Mobil 1 grease in the shaft housing and U-joint. I believe full capacity is around 2 quarts? There are several websites with the Kohler 25 specs. I always run Sta-bil/ Statron? or have used Seafoam before in the gas to prevent gumming and carburetor issues. I removed that foam "pre-cleaner" around the air filter and the motor breathes better- after all we're running in the marsh not cutting grass.

Is it really this hard to change the oil on a lawnmower engine?

Is it really necessary to be a dick? No. Didn't think so. Id rather ask and not mess up my only means of transportation for duck hunting.

Thanks guys I picked up two quarts of Penzoil ultra class synthetic. They cross referenced the numbers off of the filter it had on it and found me one to fit. Replaced the spark plugs as well. I took it back out after it started raining but before i replaced anything hoping that the vent cap was the issue. It wasnt. The engine doesnt give me any issue out of the water. Only at wot in the water and only after about a minute it bogs down. I set everything up exactly as before I had the boat worked on. I just went and rechecked all of my line connections and checked the fuel water seperator for water. It didnt have any. I hope there was a air leak in the line or something like that or that the spark plugs were causing the issue. This is not what i need a week before the season. I ran it in the yard so its not like it really sat up the whole time the boat was being worked on. And it was runnning perfect before that. IDK this is really frustrating.

What are are RPMS. Wot in and out of water.?

Don't have a tach installed so idk

what kind of fuel connections do you have and make sure and go over your line good ethanol fuks em up quick

Fuel line is direct connected with barbs. No quick connects. Went over the fuel line pretty good. It's less than 6 months old so I would really hope it's rotting on me already. Been doing a lot of reading online. If I can't fix it tomorrow ill replace the fuel pump Monday.

Check your battery with voltage meter to make sure your stator is not bad. this can cause problems in water but will run fine out of water.

Well thought I had it. Ran great at wot in the water for at least 5 mins if not more and then started acting up again. Going pick up a fuel pump tomorrow.....

Delta, do you have an electric or hydraulic fuel pump? My 2004 Kohler has the hydraulic one, which was a simple switchout- like p5388 eloquently indicated, bad gas can mess up the diaphragm which was my case. A friend has an older 25 that came without an electronic fuel pump so he found one at NAPA- it was kind of trial and error till he found the one with the correct flow rate, wish I could help you on that. Don't mind cb and the vinegar dispensed on this site- comes with the territory, I am sure they are all sweet grandpas, dads, uncles, and brothers, specially when there is a buffet table set up. I've learned to be almost as ornery in my own sui generis way. Hope you get running quick!

Man I couldn't tell you if it's electric or hydraulic. I read int the manual that's it's controlled by electrical pulses or something like that so my guess would be electric. I have a go devil service shop/dealer 10 minutes from my house so they should be able to hook me up eight the correct one for my motor.

The manual says its a mechanical pump

There should be three hoses on pump. 1 is supply from tank, 1 pressure to Carb. And the other is a pulse hose from either the crank case or valve cover.

There are actually 2 different fuel pumps Kohler used, both are "mechanical" but the true mechanical that operates by the physical contact of the valve rocker going up and down (not all that common) is mounted to the valve cover and looks like this:
kohler fuel pump.jpg

and the "pulse" operated fuel pump:
kohler fuel pump2.JPG

Should you have the true mechanical fuel pump setup, with the fuel issues we have today, you are way better off converting over to the "pulse" pump (about $90 or more vs. $30 or less) - your engine is already equipped with the port on the rear of the engine to provide the pulse, you just have to create (or "rig") a way to mount the pulse pump and put in the 1/4" "source" hose via a 1/8 npt 90* to hose barb from this port.

My Kohler 25 was originally set up to run propane (I thought, hey, that's great - I can use it to run the heater too, until I started having to try to find propane on weekends that wasn't Blue "Rip-off"... ). I converted mine back to a carburetor, and incorporated the pulse type fuel pump, mounting to the plastic fan cover with some drywall screws.

P5388
Question , What prop do you run 9x6 or 9x7 and do you know what your rpms in and out of the water are . I talked to Warren coco and he first suggested a 9x7 but said it wouldn't turn it , he sent me a 9x6 . Out of water rpms are 4200 , in the water 3150-3250 does this sound right . Thanks for your input

H Finn

Yea it's the one in the first picture. Does it come like that? Valve cover and all? I figured it would be the pump itself just having to remove the old one off the valve cover and replace with a new one.

I run a 9X6 - it will run a 9X7 but really puts too much load on the 25 - when you put too large a pitch on the prop, your governor on the engine puts the carburetor at WOT long before you ever get the throttle lever to the WOT position. Arlon, at that place that I guess we are not supposed to mention, explained to me the 1st number is the diameter, and the 2nd is the pitch, which relates to how many inches per revolution it is "supposed" to push forward (but when I'm gouging in the mud on "skinny water", I'm pretty sure I'm not moving 6" per revolution ) ...

Don't know what rpm's I'm running - got a new tiny tach on the way -

If you were to pull the screws out of your pump on the valve cover, you just end up with the top 1/2 of your fuel pump in your hand - the valve cover contains the rest - that's why they are expensive, and not so common. Kohler tried these for a while, then upgraded to the "pulse" style

10-4 p! My 27 is rated to use the 9x7 but I can tell you the 9x6 works better. I am presently running a Ron Hill prop that is stout and little worn after four seasons- the one MB Tiger sheared after hitting coral rock and the other is nicked and vibrates. I have a BackH20 9x6 as backup the price is much less than the others.