Just exploring a retrofit of the Prodrive Gen III lower unit to replace my '12 Gen II lower unit.

If I went this route, what could I expect to get for the used lower unit? It currently has around 120 hours on it.

Is there even any demand for one out there?


Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.

Would seem to me it would be a daunting task to find someone who needed one, but if they did, this would be the place to look. Good luck.

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk 2

It might be easier to part it out.

Pm me an asking price. I would take the 2000 you would spend on the lu and add a cam and some head work and turn the current lu the way it should be run. just my $.02

I'm not really interested in mods. I know what everybody says about them and I don't doubt it. But, I have to maintain horsepower restrictions on our lease which I have been told means no mods.

Maybe when the Briggs warranty goes out, I may look at mods for this one and get something lighter that a stock motor can better handle.

As for an asking price...I have no idea. That's what I'm trying to figure out! LOL



Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.

U can still do heads and cam and nobody will know u did

I would be interested in the Lu.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

You will be going backwards if you do this..

Without doing engine mods and voiding the warranty, what are my options for better load carrying?

The only options I see going forward are:

1. Retro Gen III LU ~$1700
2. Add EFI to existing Gen II ~$1900
3. Retro Gen III and add EFI
4. Sell whole motor and buy new with Gen III. ~ $2000-2500 difference based on what I can get for the '12.

I am leaning toward just selling what I have and going with a new PD with the Gen III.

Or, before somebody else says it...get a lighter boat. I want to keep the boat, though...and try to fit a square peg into a round hole!

We already know what kind of weight with which I am needing to push. 1,380 lbs. before me, gear or anybody else step foot in the boat.



Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.

I'm not disagreeing with y'all on this at all. I could do up the stock heads and even re-jet the stock carb to stay "discreet" with the lease overseer. But, how discreet would that remain at a B&S service center if something went south and I needed warranty work?

What is cost to have somebody machine my stock heads, lap/seat stock valves? (That knows what they are doing) Add $180 for new 4700 coils which I can install myself. That has been my next "threat" of things to do. Still playing the prop game right now with Hopkins.


Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.

Okay, here's a thought. What would be considered "safe" mods to stock heads? Something where a very conservative individual such as myself would not be worried about reliability/failures....and still improve performance?

I know everybody preaches mods are more reliable than stock. But, I can't buy into that thought on the premise that taking away metal and building more compression = longer life and more reliability. That just doesn't add up in my metal head mind where I look at mechanical failures of things on a very routine basis...not engines, granted...but mechanical failures due to things like pressure, heat, fatigue, metal loss and all sorts of other damage mechanisms.



Sent using Morse Code from my not so smart phone.

Can you adjust in the rockers?

You can either cut the valve stems or find shorter pushrods. That is of course if the vavles stems you are using are stock length, then you can take into consideration that after the angles of the seats are cut how much more did the valves sink in. I like to take the overall after the seat cut is performed and take off of the vavles stems to get the stock vavle train geometry.

Dammit Jamie, I was asking North La Hunter

Sorry

I did decking and 3 angle valve job on my kohler and had to shim the rocker stand. It has hydraulic lifters so you can't adjust the lash. No issues with alignment on intake or exhaust.

See....you guys done went and got WAY over my head with all this mod stuff.

I like the Keep It Stupid, Simple method of doing things.

.

I give....

Yes, you can over do it....however, you can safely bump them up a notch. Stock, compression is low....You are good going to .050 or even .060.

.050 Gives you approx 185psi,,,.060 will give you ~190.

Long story short,,,send your heads to anyone of the reps on this site that do them and you will have a way better running/performing/idling and load carrying then you will with just a lower unit swap....

I tell ya, you guys just about have me convinced on trying this route.

So, let me get this straight...

1. Deck the stock heads minimum 0.030"...maximum 0.050"
2. New Stainless valves and push rods, triple taper valves, have them seated, make sure rods/valves are fit to compensate for heads being closer
3. Set valve lash
4. Change out 4350 coils to 4700 coils
5. Nobody knows nothing from the outside

I don't want to jack with the exhaust. It's already loud.

I know coils are $180.00/set. What's the rest of this going to cost me?

Why not break into it and throw a cam in it?

That's the route I think I'm going to go if I can keep one for a little while!


Sent from my beeper.

That's the point...I don't want to break into it at all! I'm already nervous just talking about having the heads done.

Run the stock pushrods. And shim the valve springs.

Put a level 1 on it and be done with it. Sounds like u need to live a little:lol: