I always tend to over think things and this GD frame rebuild has me think'in again. Would a adjustable cavitation plate be useful on a long tail or should I just bend it like everyone else? I think I have a full proof design with the use of minimal hardware. This LT will be used year round for hunting and fishing trips with varying loads and thought it may help performance.

Couldn't hurt I wouldn't think! I say go for it! If it doesn't work cut it off and weld a regular one on it! You might be on to something!


Sent from my beeper

I might just make that my weekend project if momma will leave me alone!

Adjustable at first is nice but once you get it set for the boat you don't need it.

It would be nice just for the easier and more precise adjustments. If you're like me, you have to adjust it with prop wear to keep it running right.

Where in SETX are you?

I'm over in Orange.
Like most people I want to get the most out of whatever I'm doing. My frame of mind is revolving around the vast possible load range of the end project. 1. I'm 210 lbs 2. Son #1 225 lbs 3. #2 son 290. Take into account the difference of equipment load for duck hunting vs red fishing and the minimum to maximum possible weight for 1 to 3 large folks at any given time, I just like having options that "might" help performance. After some digging this evening I have figured out that the main adjustment for the cavitation plate is made by bending the trailing edge up or down. My initial plan was to hinge the leading edge of the cavitation plate on the shaft. Is that going to help? I'm now drawing up a hinged trailing edge also. This may end up in the scrap yard but WTH it's just time and a little money!!!!!

I've considered the same... But I wouldn't hinge the leading edge. It needs to be fixed. I had considered running a hinge all the way across the trailing edge of the plate with a long bolt/nut thru it. This way all you need to do is loosen the bolt a little, tap the adjuster up or down and tighten the bolt back up. It would be easily done with a tall weld on hinge and long bolt in place of the pin. A little crude but I think it would work. I'm sure there's a better way but to test out a theory I don't see why that wouldn't accomplish what you're after.

I've seen others take a 6" long by 2" widepiece of aluminum flat stock and bolt it on to the edge and just bend that instead of the factory cav plate

I haven't thought of using aluminum! That's a good idea. I just planned on using a lighter gauge steel on the cav plate. Thanks for the info.