Anyone have a machine shop they've dealt with personally?

I have the original pro drive base model with the first lower unit they designed. I have a little pitting around where the prop seal goes... Was thinking of finding a machine shop who could build it back up, and machine it back out. Anyone ever have this done?

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Did Peck say you should replace it? I'd probably try it and see if it sealed before going through the trouble if you can't just buy a new shaft from PD. I know it sux to put it back together not knowing if you're gonna be done with it, and if you could easily get a new shaft, I'd say go for it...but since that isn't an option, I'd at least try what you have. Clean it up best you can, and see what happens..

Any machine shop should be able to do what you're asking. Just call around or go to a few local shops and find one who seems interested in helping you. I would remove the shaft from the LU and bring it with you wherever you go. It may be easier/cheaper for them to build a new one than to weld up and re-machine the old one. Not sure, but I'd ask...

Cb, peck said he doesn't sell those shafts. Whether he did at one time or not, Idk. But I am going to replace both seals and attempt it, but even if it does fix it... I'm sure eventually I'll need a new shaft, and before I sell it to another person, I'd like to make sure I'm not passing on my problem to them.

I'll know something hopefully by this time next week... Pulling the power head possibly tonight to replace the top seal.

As for the machine shop, I've called three locally and only one said they MIGHT could do it... I sent him a descriptive email with pictures to get his feedback.

Again cb, you've been pretty helpful through this whole thing, even bouncing your thoughts with mine helps... So again, thanks.

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I know peck said he didn't have the shafts anymore. I was asking what he said about running it? Did he just want you to buy a new LU? Did he say it's probably fine?

Lots of places will turn down something over the phone, especially something they don't deal with everyday. If you really want it done, pull the shaft and go visit a few shops. You'll find a guy that enjoys a curveball every now and then and is willing to help you out, he'll probably be cheaper than the shops trying to run you off too.

I have a local guy here I've brought some random stuff to and he always helps me out and doesn't charge much. His bread and butter is harley's though, and the few people I've given his number to, he told them "we work on harley's" and had no interest in helping them with their lawnmower engines. He's done head work, valve work, cylinder work, even welded up a block for me, but wouldn't do a valve job for a buddy that called him. Don't know why he's always helped me and doesn't want to help anyone else, other than I bring him the stuff so he can see it's not really that big of a deal. He actually seems to enjoy doing something different, which doesn't make any sense if you knew what he was telling other people... Anyway, being friendly, not in a huge hurry, and going in person so you can show them what you want done and let them hold the part seems to help. At least in my experience.

Cb,

I definitely don't want to come off as bad mouthing peck. He currently is, and has been working with me and my problem. He did suggest (In fact just emailed me again literally a minute ago) to replace seals and try it first. When I asked the "what if", as in it doesn't work... then! he made a comment about it being hard finding that old shaft, and mentioned I'd probably be better off buying a whole new lower unit. So, yes he said run it first... which again, I plan on doing... just been killing me thinking about it all, and trying to have a plan B ready. Its never fun to go spend a large amount of money on a rig, and find out its possibly going to be of no use, and a complete lost.

Cool. If he said run it, I'd run it. That's all I was trying to get out of you. It makes sense for him to want you to upgrade. If you upgrade now, you're more likely to have help again in a few years if you need it. If you don't, you're even less likely than now to be able to find parts should you have another issue down the road... Peck is good people. He won't try to steer you wrong.

Also lots of benefits on the last model of gen2's they put out. There is grease in the bottom and the top. Almost makes an impenetrable wall of grease on both sides of the gears which did wonders in preventing the seal issue you're having now.

Send me a picture what you looking to do !!!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425428178.542599.jpg

Just a thought but another option you could try is a Redi-Sleeve or speedi-sleeve. It will give you a new surface for the seal and you can get one for less than $20.

You just need to know the shaft diameter. It uses the same seal and you should be able to get it from any auto parts store. Here is a video of a guy installing one.

Speedy sleeve is the way to go. Not worth welding and machining it. Just get a sleve. We use on diesel engine cranks so I guarantee your shaft will work

I just realized I don't think the sleeve will work either... For example look at this pic.

The nut seal goes on first, and that pitted line actually lines up with where that prop bushing should meet the nut. I however had that solid piece of machined aluminum that had no type of seal on it. Peck is sending me one with a seal. So if I used the sleeve, it would butt up to the nut.. not sure if that would cause problems?

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Could you pull the pieces apart?I'm just not understanding how that nut seal works I've never seen the inside of a sd. Just for a reference so I can get some brain juices flowing for ya to figure something out.

Here is a picture inside the housing showing bearing. The nut seal plugs that hole as shown above.

This is the old style prop bushing, notice it's solid one piece.

The bottom piece is the bottom of the nut seal. So when it's all together it looks like this....


Except obviously with prop, then prop nut. Does that help some?

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Whatabout this, could you flip the seal around so it would ride on a different part of the shaft? Or not pound it in all the way by using a spacer so the seal is on a different area

DC, not sure your understanding the mechanics of it.

That large nut has a seal built into the threads, that is one seal (The main seal on the first models of prodrive). The second seal is on the inner side of the prop bushing. In the picture(s) I've shown you above, my "older" style one did not have a seal built into it. The one I'm getting from peck, does however have one (The norm for newer motors bought/built today). Also, the new prop nut/seal he sent me actually has 2 (two) seals in it instead on the 1 (one) I had... So in summary, I'll actually have 3 (three) total seals now... Which is nothing special, all the motors today have that.

I'll post a better pic this weekend that shows everything involved and in what order...

Thanks for the suggestions though!

where i may have confused you is the last picture I posted... I have my hand out with a nut/seal to the left, and a regular seal on the right. The seal on the right is actually for the top of the lower unit. Originally when I received it I was confused too, I thought that was a extra seal for the prop side... Maybe that helps.

Ohh okay. I didn't look at an estimate dimension of that seal, not being familiar with this setup, I thought that a seal presses inside the nut that would seal shaft to nut(which I was suggesting you could space out/flip around) Then there would be the seal going from nut to lower end. Sorry to make it confusing, just trying to help, but without having parts in my hand I'm just shooting ideas.

The prop bushing shouldn't touch the nut seal, so as long you have some clearance between them I think the sleeve will work. You can put it to where there is only a small amount outside of where the seal runs.

It shouldn't. And the new one won't.

Your right cb, there's about 1-2 cm slot that separates the two of them. Good call, I may use the sleeve just as reinforcement. My only issue I'll have to figure out is the "cap" used to hammer is down will probably make contact with the end of the shaft before I get the correct depth. I may need to cut a hole in the end.

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Probably want to use a piece of pipe or something so you can hit is square. If you cut a hole in the "driver" it comes with and just slide it over the shaft, you'll have to tap it around the sides. Being able to hit it square is going to yield much better results.

Ten four. Again good call, I think I can make it work. Work pending, I'm pulling the power head tomorrow to replace top seal. It doesn't look too bad. Waiting for the prop bushing from peck, then I should be back in business.

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Just pulled the power head and dropped the LU to replace top seal. Little confused on how to get to the seal... Pretty sure this is it down at the bottom of the drive shaft housing.

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Wipe off the grease ring at the gear housing to expose the Allen head bolts.

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