Just threw this out to start some discussion. The longtail is reliable in great part because of its simple effective design. I'll start with a better grease zerk and motor vibration isolators (motor mounts?).

Retirement plan?

Remove the u-joint.(#1) add hurth zf trans(#2) power trim(#3) surface prop(#4) free floating handle(#5) e5 35 hp vanguard (#6) That should do it !!

Not too far off base, Flint! I hear too many whining about how hard it was to run an LT and that is why they bought the SD...look at all those skinny Asian boys running those big river boats with LT's. CB, I just turned 61 and I am looking to retire in about five more seasons, and I don't need any surface drive just yet. I still use my pump gun too.
I like the BBblades hex hub prop idea (I think this is standard on MB's SLT), sure would make switchouts easier.

Power steering! Lol

how about not warming those f#ckers up in the channel - props up!

cmk07c: I have been running an LT since '89. I have never gone back to my conventional outboard- sold that, good riddance! That sucker cost me lots and was a headache. I remember chatting with Coco, and he'd say that he changed his bearings at least twice a season...well, a lot of grease tubes later, I found a better product in the MB LT and now BackH20 is the frontrunner IMO. I drove a surface drive down here a few times and we had problem after problem. In our conditions, the LT is still the best ticket...an airboat is nice but expensive and I don't know a single owner that is not cussing all the time and spending money on their rigs. All four LT's I have owned- three GD's and one present MB have been reliable and economical. We have hard sand/marl bottom, shallow water, little mud, plenty of veggies, IMO the LT wins. Sure, you live slower but you enjoy the ride. You also exercise your arm. A little more speed would be nice but I don't envy the weight, cost, and complexity of the SD one bit.

Speaking of economical, I can run all day on 4 gallons of gas with my longtail.
It's crazy and I don't have a itty bitty rig either. I got a 25 pushing an 18x44.


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A rubber tiller handle. Or include a jockstrap with the purchase of an lt

I thought the super longtail was suppost to change everything, that mudbuddy put out.

A hex hub would be nice for changing props. As far as other improvements, I'm not sure. Here's my take on it. Once you start adding neutral, reverse, trim, floating handles, etc...you begin to add more and more "wear parts". By that I obviously mean parts that can go bad and leave you stranded. So when you start adding these things, you're really getting away from what sets a longtail apart. A longtail is simple, easy to maintain, easy to fix, workhorse. Simple, but often overlooked details have been addressed over the last few years and have made longtails easier to operate, all while keeping their ruggedness and dependability. Things like a foam filled DOM frame, handles that can be adjusted for right or left handed driving, etc.

This it's all of course my opinion and means nothing. Lol.

All good points, Frank! I just got my MB LT fixed, the key had slipped on the keyway and I needed new bearings..lucky the shaft was still good, saved $120 there, and some bolder set screws should be good for several more seasons though I entertain the notion of stepping up to the big Swomp motor, hell yes! The Ron Hill prop is still very stout and it has worn very little in five seasons! I learned after some stubborn years, to stay the hell away from trying to run the sand. I know years ago I tried GD's three bladed prop, which was definitely faster in open water but not weedless when you hit the veggies, so I went back to the 2 bladed cupped design which is the mainstay of LT's. Wonder if there isn't more room for improvements on the props?

Something that I think could be improved is the bump stop adjustment on the Swomps. The bump stop is a great idea, but it's a chore to adjust it when your operating the motor. Wonder of there's a way to rig that so you can adjust the stop without reaching around the motor.


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Stu, I have to look at the motor schematic, but maybe a long manual screw adjustment or ratcheting system? How often do you have to do this? Could be good feedback to BackH20 mfg.

Good idea Glades. Don't the GO Devil surface drives have a manual trim adjustment within easy reach? I was thinking something along those lines. I probably adjust the stop about twice a trip.


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I set the stop so the Cav plate is about a foot underwater with the boat static. If I have to start digging,I raise the stop almost all the way. When we're frogging, I set the stop so the Cav plate is just underwater when the boat is static.


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I could see how the bump stop would be cumbersome if you're adjusting it frequently. But I'm like Schmidty, I never adjust mine. I have it set all the way up so I can dig when necessary. I have a stainless cable mounted in the floor of the boat that I can use to keep the prop out of the water.

Now bump stop on MBLT.... My GD hull has a pad eye. I have a rope attached to it. When wanting to keep prop up, I just hook rope to it. 90% of time I either put tiller on floor or let the tail just hang. The MBLT is very bow heavy.... Not balanced at all


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Framk, I like the cable idea. Do you just loop it around the tiller or do you have some kind of attachment?


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The reason I adjust the stop is just for ease of handing. I could raise the stop all the way up and not have to fool with it.


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If I'm doing a lot of slow speed marketing for an extended period of time, like when I run yo-yos, I have the bump stop adjusted so the prop doesn't sit all the way in the water.

Stu I'll post a picture of my set up this weekend.

Please do. Thanks Frank


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