Thought he was talking about a Gtr. Jumped the gun I guess.

The 2 blade is better stock for stock,especially with the 37 efi that u can't upgrade yet!

2-blade was a waste of money in my opinion. I can't get the boat to run more than 25 mph with just me and the dog. It'll only hold 24.5 mph steady. I may have my 3-blade worked. It was faster stock.


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Coot you can always sell and get a GTR. There's other options buddy..lol

its been almost 4 years now and pd still cant put a prop out to make every body happy.

I ran some trials this weekend on a stock 3 blade (30 hrs) and stock 2 blade ( 0 hrs).

I ran it wih one man load (empty), average 3 man load (750 lbs) and extra heavy bow fish load (1020 lbs). 6 foot deep of water, no current, slight side wind, 50's, 18x54 prodrive sbx, 36 hp EFI prodrive E5 with prodrive hp exhaust.

In summary, 3 blade prop ran slightly faster with no load, 2 blade prop runs faster with 3 man load, 2 blade prop ran faster with extra heavy load, and 2 blade prop did not caviate as easily on hole shot with heavy load. Both props jump me up to plane very quickly thanks to E5, but 3 blade needs more throttle control.

Data with speed round to branch peak speed within 0.5 mph


2 blade empty. 310 lbs 4650. 28

3 blade empty 310 lbs 4700 28.5

2 blade 750 lbs 4600 27

3 blade 750 lbs. 4600 26.

2 blade 1020 lbs 4600 24

3 blade 1020 lbs 4600 23

Remember this is an sbx self bailing model which adds the weigjt of another man, so add 150- to 180 to an x series boat for comparison.

My goal was to get this boat to 23-26 with bowfishing load and 26 - 28 with 2 man heavy fishing load, plus have any unsinkable boat which I can take anywhere . I believe prodrive has delivered what I want. I may still get my props cleaned up to gain another 1/2 to 1 mph.Weights

Also, KP's speed estimates were right on target. Great doing business with them.

I was thinking the same, target around 4500. 4700 gets me a little worried.

I'm not sure which prop to alter. 2 blade which seems to handle loads better or 3 blade.

And how to chose pitch, besides just trial and error. Add 1", add 2"? Cup? Thoughts?

I might just do both props and take one for the team, to get some more data. Prop selection is much easier with skiing boat, since you don't ride the fine line of surface prop performance and no-load from being to high.

Nice thing about heads and cam work, you can dig the prop in a lot more without killing rpms. I still find best speed to be just above a smooth jet of water blowing above the wake, to a little spray (1/3 of max spray). I tend to run out of real estate in the bayou before I dial it in.

What do you plan on running thick grass or mud? If so 2 blade. If you plan on just running in water I'd go with the three blade. And every pitch added is 200-300 rpms you will lose so if you can run on top just fine at 4700 I would only put 1 pitch and a cup. Now this is just my opinion

Thanks! Forgot about the 200-300 rule of thumb . Since with 300lb load I was strongly held by the rev limiter, I may not actual drop much at low load speed since I believe I had Hp to spare (not WOT). I was kissing he rev limit at 750 load, so drop some there. And just out of horsepower at 1020 lb load, so that should be 200-300 rpm there.

With a higher pitch, At light loads I may still be at 4700, but using more Hp, if I'm thinking correctly.

Probably try the 2 blade first, since I really benefit from more speed redfishing when I go from one side of lake to the other, but still have mud.

I had planned to try e2 first, but KP thought I should try their new cam on my sbx. While deciding to do either cam or the heads, it was best for me to do it in one shot. So I guess that is basically their E5 kit.

I think they are still figuring out what works commercially best for them and what is best to included in the package for performance. They put on a new high output muffler, which I wasn't expecting, and don't really know if it helps. Muffler sounds cool, but since I'm already 70% deaf, I'm not sure I would have put it on there. I'm not sure if the muffler or the new air intake are part of E5. I like the air intake has good look, and only has a metal screen so nothing to replace.

Best to ask KP for price estimates. He honored what his first preliminary estimate which I thought was a good deal for me, so best to use his estimates as a good guide, unless it's posted on web page yet.

Next step for me, send baggy my 2 blade prop for some more pitch and tuning, then maybe have him work my three balde too.

That seems pretty close to what I was running with stock pitch your boat should be at least 2 mph faster with those mods add 1 thing at a time! Don't add cup and pitch at the same time they can cause poor results in the wrong order.

I"ll answer a PM here to share info with all....
"What kind of speeds were you getting before with the E2? How much did it improve by?"


Answer. I never did E2. Went straight from the prodrive EFI, to E5. I consider e2 as a step, but decided to just get it all done at once.

My speeds before were : 24-26 empty, 22(summer)- 25(winter) hunting load (750 lbs) , and 17-20ish bowfish load (1000 lbs)and hard to plan bowfishing load with frontend load.

The biggest difference is the heavy load ability. Know it jumps up on plane with heavy load and runs good consistent speeds I posted earlier.

I'm having my 2 blade prop worked on now and will post info after. Also will post a summary of all changes in the boat review section when I'm done putting money into it.

^^^^^that never happens lol, i promise. U will always keep spending money on a mudboat

Just got my 3-blade back from a prop shop when to put it on and I can't get it to slide further then a 1/4"-1/2" anyone ever had a issue with this it's the straight spline shaft

U gotta beat it on with a hammer lol the spines on the shaft are spun from hitting logs and stuff! The shaft is to small for the amount of force going through it!!

That's the reason for the new tapered shaft!

Beat it on there like it owes u money lol

Did u try putting the prop in different groves. Turning it to see if they line up better?

What prop did your motor come with?

Maybe overheating when doing prop work. Idk If the 2 blade goes on fine and 3 blade doesn't after being worked. Then that's my guess. Put the prop in the freezer and put a lot of never seive on the shaft and try again.

Why would you put the prop in the freezer.... That will make it smaller. You'd need to heat it up to get it over the splines right? Or am I completely missing something.

I would be afraid that doing this would make it hell to come back off once everything has cooled down. I'd run a file through the splines on the prop and make sure there's not some sort of burr. Never sieze the shit out of it and put it on.

This^^^^. If you overheated it, it should not changed dimension. Putting it on cold would make it very tough to install. Putting it on hit, would make removal much harder later.

Gotta be a burr, or damage to the splines during prop work .

[quote="Terraboat"]This^^^^. If you overheated it, it should not changed dimension. Putting it on cold would make it very tough to install. Putting it on hit, would make removal much harder later.

Gotta be a burr, or damage to the splines during prop work .[/quote

There is no burrs on either when I turn the prop backwards and try to make the splines match up it acts like the prop is smaller in diameter cus the spline wound try to line up at all

Metal doesn't shrink ( other then temporary thermal changes). It does deflect. The splines must be twisted ( or damaged, but you don't see burr). Probably easier to damage prop splines, then the shaft splines.

Using a small flat edge file in the prop spline is probably repair.

If he files the prop that already fit on the shaft he's going to make it loose on the shaft and strip it out. The 2 blade spline were probrably shallower and where not fully engaged in the shaft causing the tips of the teeth of the spline to wear on the tips.now when he tries to in stall the 3 blade the deeper splines are not aligning properly. The prop would need to be forced on, are purchase a new shaft. If you put metal in a freeze it make the molecules closer( contract ) witch would make the diameter of the bore larger making it easier to install, once the prop is on the shaft and he runs it for a little while the spines will realign and will be easier to remove. Never seive should allow you to remove the prop easier, use a socket over the shaft so u don't mess up the treads. And then finish putting it on with the nut

There's a whole in the coupling under the clutch, stick a bolt in the whole and jam it against the frame so the shaft doesn't spin when your trying to reinstall the nut.

When I install bearing on a shaft I put then in the freezer and they go right on. I would think it would have the same effect with a prop.

Because the metal is more flexible/pliable. When the molecules spread out, the hole gets smaller, metal expands. When you freeze it, the hole gets bigger, because the molecules move closer together. I wouldn't have thought an average freezer would be cold enough to make a difference in this case, but hey, it worked for him.