I have a 1648 Weldbilt and have finally decided to go with the 35hp Go-Devil
Surface drive.
I've read many posts about folks saying if you don't have a mud hull you should probably beef up your transom.
Is there any specific or "best" way to do this or if I just take my rig to a good Aluminum welder should he know what to do by maybe adding an extra brace or something????

Thanks!

If you have wood in your transom.Check it out and replace if it has signs of rotting wood.Then you can make the corner caps bigger and cover more area.Add some more braces going from the floor to the transom.Just things like that will help.These motors are heavy and will beat the shiat out of a normal transom.

Thanks! I can't see any wood on the transom like my dads old boat.

If the transom is not wood under the metal surface I am looking at what else would it be????

How old is the boat? My Polar Kraft was all welded but still had wood sandwiched in between two pieces of aluminum.First trip out with a MM my transom was split down both sides because the wood was rotten.

I had knee braces added to mine. Basically two 2x2 tubes welded at a 45 from the transom to a rib. But I think you have to be careful how and where you weld it to the ribs. I remember some talk that if done wrong, it could possibly cause a hook in the bottom of your hull.

I had a Polar Kraft 1860. It was the last year for the wood transom. 1999. I hit a stump and had to get the transom fixed. Doubled the transom with 1/4" both sides and extra Knees

any update to this? have a 1752 weldbilt 16" transom needing a 21" for the 35 mud buddy.

Heres how I brace Alumacraft Jons.

3x3 steel angle all the way across top of transom to gunnels, then 1"x1/4 steel strap in front of transom caps and welded to angle and bolted thru gunnel roll. Really stiffens up transoms on .072 gauge lite weight boats.

When I started rigging my boat for my 31 GT, the transom was was all rotted wood. Cut the cap off and pulled it out, then built a new transom out of coosa/fiberglass, laminated to 1 1/2 thick. It already had a knee brace welded into the floor behind the seat. Once I got it back in the boat I put gusset braces made from 1"stainless tubing with plates welded to each end on 45's. That is bolted into the transom outside the motor mounts on each side and bolted into the side boards above the rear bench. It is strong as "you know what". It's an '89 1648 Alumacraft jon boat. Handles the 265 # just fine.

I took 2 pieces of angle steel and sandwiched the transom and then two steel plates under them for the motor to mount two. i used to be able to see the transom move when the motor bounced and now its built like a brick shit house!!! all i did was bolt it through and crank it down.

HEY THANKS FOR UPDATES GUYS LOOKS LIKE I CAN KEEP MY BOAT AND GET A SURFACE DRIVE!!! Didn't really want to have to go buy a new boat. Also you guys have to install pods on your boat?

I did this to an older fisher. All aluminum, watch out if you go the steel route due to corrosion/electrolysis when touching aluminum.

I got a steal on the boat but it had a 20 inch transom so while i decided to cut it down i wanted to beef it up and get all the wood out.I did all the prep work/cutting then took it to a welder to finish it all.

2x2 box, boxed the whole thing then tied into the gunnels with round stock.20150814_192724.jpg

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This is how my weldbuilt is braced. It was ordered this way from the factory with the intension of running the SD. Hope this helps