Case gasket is leaking, so I was planning to go ahead and swap the cam when I fix it.
I'll be doing heads in the future, just not sure how soon.
Already have a voodoo exhaust, and planning to run a stock re-jetted carb.
Would like a little more speed if possible, but mostly looking at load carrying.
Recommendations?

308+4 or +6 or get the heads done first, because if they are bad the cam isn't gonna create max gains.

My reason for the cam first is due to the case gasket currently leaking

Bps and pvt. Cb might have one still. He'll chime in if he does. I think his 308 was a +4.

We got the 308 from him, he might still have a 310

I have a 310+4, the 308's are gone.

Has anyone run a bps and a 308 and notice any difference performance wise in the 2

I like the dyno 308 + 6 on the intake and +4 on the exhaust.

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If bps tightened the LSA it would probably be a little bit stronger cam

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How much difference would I see from swapping my BPS cam over to a Dyno 308 +6? Will it be harder on the valve train or lose any reliability? I don't know much about the different cams and the info ya'll posted. Looks like good info though!

It really depends on the overall combonation. I doubt that a cam only swap would be a significant increase in power. At least not enough to justify cost. Imo anyway. If u want more power i would first look at the combo u have now and make a call from there. If u list all details of your engine then thes folks cant point you in right direction for more power

Are those specs accurate? I ran both cams back to back and the 308 was WAY stronger.

And by way stronger I mean it is very noticeable.

It pulled hard in my stage 3 engine from around 1500-5100.

The BPS cam came in later and was lights out at around 4700.

Centerlines and lsa..

Craig, there can be A LOT of variation in the cams as in a Tuesday vs. Friday sorta thing! What they're supposed to be and what they really are sometimes are very different.... That little bit of lift wouldn't make a big difference but 5* of duration on the right LSA with the right lobe profile can produce STOOPID power!

Craig, what lsa's were u running on that bad boy? ...nevermind , i guess u were refering to graph.

I have a stage 1. Heads worked by Jamie decked .050, BPS cam, and Mac exhaust. Just looking to experiment with a few things. I will add a mikuni after the season is over. Just curious about the cams and how much difference it would really make compared to my BPS.

Good job on the graph db8.

Paper is one thing, actual running it is another. Unfortunately, if you place 5 different orders apart from each other for the same cam from any given source, there's a good chance that all damn 5 will be slightly different... Aggravating as hell, if you know how, you best check it before you install it to make sure its what you ordered. The centerlines and lsa are super important as it times everything. The same powerhead on 3 different rigs will/can respond totally different. It's a game to play if you want to get the most out of it. A degree here or there can make a very noticeable butt dyno difference. As far as the two cams mentioned, "IF" they are truly cut correctly, shouldn't be much difference but that also depends on intake and exhaust flow. When its all perfect, it will come alive and it can take a very small tweak to do it.

Differences in the 308 and the PVT cam? I've been running a PVT cam for a while, just wonder if it would be worthwhile to change. Where in the hell do you even get this 308 cam from? Been out of the loop for a while playing with other boats.

Just about any cam company...dyno, precision, isky, web...few places people here use. Theres many more.

What is a pvt cam is that brand

Sweet got someone close ish to build my motor y'all recommend this guy then

I'll be running and comparing both of these cams again, along with a couple others in an modded EFI later this week.

If they're all pretty much the same do they all cost the same too?

Also... and I might have to ask in a new thread...
I have 500 hours on my motor and I'm about to have to replace the crank case seal. Would it even be worth it to drop a cam in there and have head work done while I have it all apart or am I asking for a blown up motor?


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If you're planning on doing the work yourself and want something mild then I'd suggest the BPS or PVT cam. Both cams are really clean and will pull from around 2000-4600 rpm.

If you're gonna have someone else do the work I'd suggest you bring it to Hoyt @GT or Jamie B. & Calen. All have cams that are safe but you can expect them to come in sooner, thus giving you more bottom end and load carrying ability.

As for the heads, you're safe decking them up to about .050. If you're wanting to stay mild I'd shave them .030.

I HIGHLY recommend changing your valves as they are the common weak/fail point. You can purchase them from PVT and possibly BPS. Or you can pull your heads and ship them to Jamie B. for a complete re-working. He'll deck them, port/polish them, and install new stainless 1-piece valves along with a multi angle valve job. No one puts as much attention as he into these heads. His work is truly second to no one.

These mods are all safe and would pretty much make your engine more reliable than it is now.